Best wave of the big day of swell


From my adventurous son …

This is the one wave I got on the big day of the swell.  The conditions weren't very good all morning, super big and very junky.  But things eventually cleaned up and I got one.  I rode the wave for a while, but the section after the one shown eventually got me.  Afterwards I watched my friend JoJo catch a good one, and then Greg got one.  And the tail end of Greg's wave cleaned me up, and I was stuck in a rip that no one would ever wish upon themselves.  Greg's wave held me down so long that when I finally made it to the surface, I took a breath as soon as possible but got nothing but foam and water in my one gasp before the next wave steam rolled me.  After that I was fighting back puking and trying to get air while seeing stars and getting blasted by the next 8 or 10 waves, stuck in the rip and getting absolutely no closer to the beach.  I tried waving for a jet ski, but no one could see me, by then I was way down the beach in NO MAN'S LAND.  Fortunately as stuff was starting to get really hard, the rip surrendered and I made it to the beach.  After that I puked and coughed the water out of my lungs and called it a day.  That was the worst beating I've ever had, I'm very glad to be here and ready for the next swell out the back.